The surfboard
Board designations (A)
Deck: The upper side of the surfboard is called the deck. It is the area where the surfer stands or lies when they surf. The deck can have different shapes and constructions that affect the board's stability and performance.
Rail: Rail refers to the edge or side of the surfboard. The rail shape and their sharpness play a decisive role in how the board cuts through the waves and gives the surfer control.
Bottom: The bottom of the surfboard is the side facing down towards the water. The bottom can have different contours and convex or concave shapes that affect the maneuverability and speed of the board.
Nose: The nose is the tip or front of the surfboard. This is usually the area that first hits the wave when you catch a wave. The shape of the nose affects the board's stability and ability to take waves.
Tail: The tail is the back end of the surfboard. It can have different shapes that affect the maneuverability and control of the board. For example can a wide tail provide more stability, while a narrow tail allows sharper turns.
Stringer: The stringer is a rigid bar, usually made of wood or carbon fiber, that runs along the middle of the surfboard, from the nose to the tail. It is used to strengthen and reinforce the board, which can affect the board's flex and stiffness.
Traction Pad: The traction pad is a non-slip material that is usually attached to the deck of the surfboard. It gives surfers a place to place their feet for better grip and control, especially when performing tricks or turns.
Fins: Fins are the wing-like structures attached to the bottom of the surfboard. They play a vital role in providing directional stability and control. The number, size and placement of the fins can vary depending on the surfboard's design and the surfer's preferences.
Rocker: Rocker refers to the curvature or bow found on the surfboard. It can be flat or more curved. The rocker affects the board's ability to handle waves, catch waves and perform turns.
The connection between these terms is crucial to understanding how a surfboard works and how it will behave in the water. Different combinations of these elements create different types of surfboards that are suitable for different surfing styles and wave conditions. For example, a narrow tail and sharp rocker will be better suited for aggressive shortboard surfing in bigger surf, while a wider tail and flat rocker will provide better stability and speed on a longboard in smaller surf. It is important for surfers to choose the right board that suits their skills and the wave conditions they want to surf.
Paddle technique
To strengthen your paddling technique, you need to be aware of both the resistance and the propulsion you create. You can reduce your resistance (drag) by positioning yourself correctly on the board and using a good paddling technique. The good paddling technique will also ensure you the greatest possible propulsion.
Position on the board (B)
When paddling efficiently, you want to move in the water with the least possible resistance. Here it is essential to position yourself correctly on the board, so that you avoid both vertical and horizontal resistance.
In order to reduce vertical resistance, you want the board to lie as flat on the surface as possible, where neither the "nose" nor the "tail" of the board is deep below the surface, thus creating resistance in the water. has an influence on whether your nose sinks or is held up when you are lying correctly (the head weighs more than you would think). When you lie in your paddle position, you must therefore lie with your head up (imagine that there must be room for a watermelon between your chin and the board), and it is in this position that the nose of the board must be approx. 5 cm above the water surface. If you move your head down towards the board, you will shift the weight of the head forward, and the nose of the board will lower and possibly go When the nose of the board is approx. 5 cm above the surface of the water, you have hit the "sweet spot" - the point where the board lies as flat as possible on the surface, and there is no resistance in front or behind. You can optionally have someone else check your position, and when you have found the spot on the board, you can mark it on your board so that you can always easily position yourself correctly. The head is important to think about when working on lying correctly on your board, as the position of your head under water. However, the size/volume of the board has an effect on how much you can influence the nose. (Illustration B) When you lie in this position, you can also actively use your head when you need to catch your wave. By lowering your head on the way down the wave on take-off, you can shift your weight forward and gain more speed, while you can get more weight to the rear by raising your head and upper body during take-off, thus preventing a nosedive .
Position on the board (C)
Horizontally, this means that you must lie on the center line of the board. On many surfboards this line is very clear due to a visible stringer (see Illustration A). You can easily check whether you are correctly positioned on the center line. When you are lying on your board in the water, you can lift both hands out of the water and thereby quickly feel whether you are tilting to one side or the other. Also make sure to keep your legs and feet on the board, and avoid compensating for an incorrect position by putting one foot in the water or lying with your legs spread apart. If you are new to the surfboard, it may be a good idea to take a paddle in calm water and feel how you affect the board when you lie in different ways, e.g. when you raise your head or move a foot beyond the edges of the board. If you are lying wrong on the board, you will have more resistance in the water and this affects your ability to catch the wave. Therefore: get a handle on your position on the board first.
Progress
When it comes to propulsion, your paddling technique takes center stage. A good paddling technique will create momentum and speed. It will give you the strength to last longer - and catch more waves when you're on the water. In short, it's about your paddle roofs creating the least possible resistance, while at the same time moving as much water as possible under you. The paddling technique you use in surfing is largely transferable from competitive swimming, where you talk about the phases (catch–pull–exit–recover), then if you want to geek out on further details, swimming theory is a good place to look for theory. There are two simple techniques you can focus on when you want to improve your paddling technique:
High Elbow (D)
If you look closely at the paddle roofs of the most skilled surfers, you will find that they hold their elbows high through their roofs (Illustration D). There is a good reason for that. The high elbow will help to keep your arm in a vertical position, already when you start your catch phase in your paddle. A vertical position of the arm under water is advantageous because you thereby create the largest possible surface area. And with the largest possible surface area, you can move as much water as possible, thus creating greater propulsion. If, on the other hand, you do not have a high elbow when you start your take, you will first have to position your arm correctly under water, and you will have a shorter time in which you can move maximum water - and perhaps you did not manage to position your arm properly at all . You can work on keeping your elbow high with the "over the barrel" exercise, where you imagine that you have to reach over an imaginary barrel in the water before your hand slides into the water.
Calm Head (D)
Another simple focus point that can significantly improve your surfing is keeping your head still when paddling. As mentioned earlier, the head is relatively heavy and must be held upright when paddling. The head should therefore also be kept fairly still throughout your paddles, as a head that sways from side to side will affect the entire body's position, and your feet will typically compensate for the weight shift. It creates a cradle that will increase your resistance in the water. So something as simple as a calm head can make your paddling more efficient.
OUT THROUGH THE WAVES
When going out through the waves, there are different techniques you can use:
Cobra (F)
This is a technique that is used if you as a surfer have a larger board, e.g. a large beginner board or a longboard. First make sure you are lying correctly on your board, and then you must paddle with the nose of the board pointing directly towards the wave. When the wave washes towards you, you grab the board's edges (rails) from your chest/shoulders and lift your upper body. The water will flow both under the board and under your body, and you will be able to pass the wave efficiently. The Cobra method can be used in small waves (small white water waves or unbroken waves).
Sit and spin (G)
(6 o'clock sit and spin) can be used if there is a big wave coming towards you that is broken. Sit back towards the tail of your board so that the nose of the board is lifted out of the water. Position yourself in the water using your feet and legs so that you turn your back and the board's tail towards the incoming wave. When the wave hits, it may be necessary to lean back against the wave if it is big, and you will lie like a buoy in the water as the wave rolls by.
Turtle roll
When you see the wave coming towards you, speed up with powerful paddles. Speed is important when you have to perform a turtle roll. Make sure the nose is pointing directly at the wave, this will make the turtle roll easier. When the wave is a few meters from your board, you start the movement. With turtle roll, the idea is that you act as an anchor under the board and thus ensure that the wave does not push you towards land. When the wave approaches, you grab the edges of the board, take a deep breath and roll around in the water. In the water, you actively push your feet and body towards the bottom, flipping the board over you. When the wave passes, you keep your elbows bent as much as possible and go after placing your hands over your shoulders. When you feel the wave grabbing the board, it may be necessary to actively push the board against the wave. The difficult – and most important – part of the turtle roll is holding on to the board. Practice in small waves and gradually build up your technique for bigger waves.
Catch the Wave
How to catch the wave:
- Sit 4–5 meters from where the waves break.
- If you sit too close to the point where the wave breaks, the wave will break on you when you paddle.
- When paddling a wave, give it 8 strong hits. You want to follow the wave from stage B to stage C, where the wave starts to break.
- It's an advantage to match the speed of the wave when paddling if you can. It is easier with broken waves, where the foam/white water pushes you forward, but more difficult with "green waves". But when paddling a green wave, what gives you momentum to get on the wave is your paddling technique as well as gravity when the wave grabs you and lifts you up and you move down the wave.
- When you feel the wave lift you up, you keep your head low so that you carry extra weight forward with the help of your head. This is the key to staying on an Unbroken wave. Your head and shoulders weigh approx. 20 kg, which is why it is crucial to keep your head down towards the board when the wave lifts you, so that you stay on the wave. Conversely, it may sometimes be necessary to sway the back to slow down or avoid a nosedive (see illustration J).
The Wave's Different Stages
Get up
Tip: Practice your pop up on land! Or make it the way you get out of bed in the morning.
Pop up
Is the most used method to effectively get on the board. The surfer 'pops up' by – in a fluid movement – jumping into position. You create space under your body by rising from the board with your arms and knees, so that you can jump forward and get into position.
Chicken Wings
Here you pull your back leg up under you and place your foot at the back of the board. Push up, place your front foot in position and stand up.
Sliding knee
With this method, you first sit on your knees, then bring your front foot forward between your hands and stand up. It's not the fastest method, but it can be a good place to start.
Push up
With this method, you first sit on your knees, then bring your front foot forward between your hands and stand up. It's not the fastest method, but it can be a good place to start.
